DESIGNER – Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme
SEASON – AW 03 (LUSTER)
ID – 3HH1018166
COLOR – BLACK
MATERIAL – COTTON
ABOUT THE ITEM
I would like to start this week’s article with another critique. With a goal of driving efficiency (or such is the excuse that is used), language has been reduced to a collection of broad concepts and acronyms. This can result in simple misunderstandings, as well as the oversimplification of complex (and sometimes sensitive) frameworks. An example that comes to mind is the “POC” acronym, which can be used to describe a “Point of Contact” or a “Person of Color”. Sure, one can use the context of the conversation to understand what the speaker is intending to communicate. However, the subject can be one, both, or neither of the two very different definitions. I often wonder if any time is saved by condensing either definition into this overly broad acronym, and how frequently it’s use leads to the need for clarifying questions.
When I hear someone referring to “lusters”, my brain immediately begins to ask clarifying questions as well. This term seems to be the oversimplification used to describe any pair of waxed Dior Homme jeans, of which there are many product variants. Some of these, like the destroyed denim from the “Strip” collection, had indicators in the removable tag that conveyed the garment was coated. Those stated “Noir brillant”, which translates to something like “shiny black.”
For those who don’t know, “Luster” was the AW 2003 collection by Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme. Jeans were introduced during the previous “Follow Me” collection, but waxed/coated jeans were widely featured during the “Luster” season. In fact, the word “luster” is defined exactly as the state or quality of shining by reflecting light. This special treatment used for the jeans in that collection perfectly epitomizes the concept conveyed by the title.
The garment I am highlighting in this article does not offer any flexibility. It was produced with a black cotton material that is very tighly woven, almost like a thin cotton moleskin. Other waxed models made of denim naturally allow a touch of flexibility because the weave is slighly more loose. The cut is very slim and tapered, and the waist is less relaxed than in other Dior Homme jeans.
Although unwashed, this pair also features whiskering and creases that compliment the gaunt body of the wearer as well as hand-applied black polyurethane coating.
The washed and waxed pair from the same collection was reproduced season after season, even through the early Kris Van Assche collections. But not this one …
This model was exclusive to the “Luster” season, and is (in my opinion) the most severe and uncompromising version of coated jeans created by Hedi for Dior Homme.
Made in Japan, 100% cotton.
